Fly Sky FS-TH9X 9Ch
Overview
The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is an excellent radio for the price. If you are on a limited budget and looking to upgrade to 2.4 GHz then I highly recommend you take a look at it. At under $100 for a complete combo it doesn't really matter if you knock or drop it.Actions | |
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Pros
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Cons
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The 2.4 GHz price wars are really heating up at the moment now that many Chinese manufacturers have entered the market. For the past few years there have been various 2.4 GHz modules coming out of China, with some decent offering from Corona and Assan, now it seems like the Chinese want to make a name for themselves by offering full systems. The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is the first offering that I decided to check out.

I am a diehard Futaba Fasst fan but I am tired of having to sell a kidney or take out a second mortgage every time I have to buy a new receiver for my fleet. The Fly Sky offerings drew my attention with their sub $20 receivers. The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is offered under various brand names but it is basically the same transmitter.
Specifications
The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is modular system, so specifications may vary depending on the module you select. The transmitter itself is loaded with features, some of which you will usually only find on some high end transmitters.
- Number of Channels: 8ch PPM/9ch PCM
- Display: 128*64 LCD
- Support Type: Heli/Acro/Glid
- User Models: 8
- Stick Modes: 4
- Encoder Type: PPM/PCM
- Sub Trim: Yes
- Simulator Interface: Yes
- Buzzer: Yes
- Low Voltage Display: Yes
The menus are clearly and easy to navigate using the 128×64 pixel LCD display. The only issue I had was that the +/- buttons are back to front with the positive on the left.
First Look
When the package arrived I was pleasantly surprised by the attention of detail that Fly Sky went to. Everything looked very professional, that was until I saw the manual. Let me start by saying that the manual is probably the worst Chinglish I have ever seen, luckily the transmitter is easy enough to program without it.

The actual layout of the transmitter is quite nice too; there is a vast array of switches for selecting rates, gear, trainer-mode, flight modes, etc. These are complimented by three knobs which serve for flaps, hover pitch, etc.
From online reports I know that the quality control for these transmitters can vary greatly. The first one I received simply wouldn’t allow me to access the menus. The second one has been with me for a few months now and is still going strong.
One major thing to note is that the amount of channels will vary depending on whether you use PPM or PCM. Switching to PPM reduces the number of available channels to only 8.
Setup
The package that I purchased included the transmitter and transmitter module but no receivers. Luckily I had planned ahead and ordered both the 6 channel and 8 channel receivers from Hobby King. One you have everything the setup is extremely easy. Simply bind the receiver to the transmitter by putting the bind plug in the receiver and powering on your transmitter while holding in the bind button. All the receivers I bought were bound without any problems.
Once you have bound the receiver to the radio, it’s time to program the radio to suit your model. Pay careful attention to servo reversing and also the transmitter’s mode selection.
Flight Testing
And now we will move on to the actual performance. I wasn’t expecting too much from this transmitter, so I was pleasantly surprised by its excellent performance. I could easily fly my helicopter to the very limits of my vision without any glitches. On a 450 size helicopter that means I could take it out about 300 metres on a 500 size helicopter I was able to go to nearly 400 metres before I started to get nervous, not because of the transmitters performance but rather because it became difficult to tell the orientation of the model. The first few flights I was actually expecting glitches, so I only used it on a few electric powered helicopters but now I feel comfortable enough to use it on my whole fleet.
Conclusion
The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is an excellent radio for the price. If you are on a limited budget and looking to upgrade to 2.4 GHz then I highly recommend you take a look at it. If you already have a Futaba/JR/Hitec radio then this will make an excellent backup or get up and go radio. At under $100 for a complete combo it doesn’t really matter if you knock or drop it.
One major problem is that when you are using PPM the 8 Channels means there is a lack of a failsafe option. This might prove a problem if you are flying very fast or dangerous models. But for smaller helicopters and aircraft I don’t see this being a big consideration.
Positives
- Affordable
- Easy to Program
- Module Flexibility
Negatives
- No Failsafe
- Only 8 Model Memories
- Quality Control Issues
As I said earlier, the Fly Sky FS-TH9X is available under various brands, Imax, Turnigy, Eurgle etc. Hobby King ‘s Turnigy 9X is now in its 3rd revision and at under $70 I highly recommend you check it out.
» Visit HobbyKing for more information or to order yours now! «



Is this transmitter FCC certified? If not, they are illegal in the US and cost lots of money in fines – just ask Hobby Lobby about the FCC problem.
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The actual transmitter doesn’t have to be FCC certified as it doesn’t emit anything, it’s just a box with a computer and some sticks, dials and switches. The TX Module needs to be FCC certified.
On the Fly Sky module that I am using, there is a FCC certification logo, so I am assuming it is FCC certified. Other modules from Corona and Assan should also be FCC certified.
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FCC ID: VPOFLYSKY002
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Thanks cisc0box,
My transmitter is on the way to South Africa along with most of my other things. So I wasn’t able to check the FCC ID.
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The FCC ID might not even be on the unit itself. I have the 6ch and it only has a FCC logo on the box. I contacted the FCC about the legality of this issue (lots of buzz on forums) but they have yet contact me back.
Read the FCC rules and it appears a sticker SHOULD be on the unit but there a certain paragraphs that seem to conflict a little.
Bottom line … it IS FCC certified and I HIGHLY doubt anyone will get in trouble for using these. If anyone would get in trouble it would probably be the companies for not placing the stickers on the unit. (if they are indeed required to do so)
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Thanks. The module needs to have an FCC ID number, not just a logo. I am just wary of getting something that does not have the proper certification. My club checks modules/Txs for the ID number.
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You can download CE and FCC certificates for the radio from the FlySky factory webpage. The systen is indeed officially certified in Europe and USA.
The module has only the CE&FCC logos, no numbers.
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Hi there
Can anyone till me i just purchase this Transmitter and when i put the battery into the transmitter it give me the message (switching Error)why is doing that please refly thank you
cheers
Frank
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Make sure that all the switches are up and the ones on top are pointing towards the rear. Then turn it on again, that should solve the switch error problem.
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darron I’m pretty sure you meant the other way around the front switches facing down and the top switches facing forwards.
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Darron is correct …. all switches should be in normal position of rest – up, and on top to back … only one DOWN should be throttle.
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My son and I just put together a new model airplane this past weekend! What a great bonding experience.
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what are the receivers (specifications) do I need to look for that work with the FS-TH9X?
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Ok… so this TX takes a battery pack to deliver 8×1.2v in a nicad pack = 9.6 volts. I’ve been told this is still more voltage than required (probably around 6 volts at 250mahrs (1/4 amp). I’d like to use a LIPO pack I have but don’t want to subject the TX circuitry to the full 11-12v (which it will just turn in to heat). I’m building an in-line regulator but need to know the actual voltage required to run the TX and 2.4gHz module. Does anyone have this info?
Thanks in advance.
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Gentlemen…
Do you have the firmware upgrade and software drivers available for this TX?
Thanks.
D. Sherfy
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I’ve done some searching and there are various firmware projects going on for the transmitter, but none are ready yet.
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I would like to know which simulator can be used or from online where to download drivers for this TX ? Thank !!
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RC Planemaster …. FMS …. HeliSimRC … basically most will work with it. You need PPJoy program and SmartProPlus … 2 freeware downloads that create LPT style Comports via standard stereo audio cable … your FS TX will have standard audio cable socket just below the module position, you then plug into AUDIO line / Mic in on your PC … yes thats correct – the Line In / Mic input …
But you can buy via Ebay generic cable to USB if you want.
Note that the PPJoy / SmartProPlus create via Audio input and need to be running for Tx to be ‘seen’ by simulators.
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Plugged in power pack backwards burnt main board part. Does anyone know where to get wiring diagram or replacement parts?
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got same problem, sorted out burned parts,
went to electronic shop and hope I can get it fixed.
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Thanks-I too received that “switching error” and tried to contact flyskychina.com but got nowhere. I happened to type in “fly sky fs-th9x” and got you fellas. Thanks I moved all switches up and I was able to get to the main menu etc. Thanks again
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Thank you very much my friends. I had the same problem as soon as I switch on the transmitter. Thanks to your comment now everything is OK.
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Fly Sky FS-TH9X 9Ch Transmitter
Can I use it for a Boat/chip? I need 8 separate Channels for switches and Servos I don´t need a plane programm. I need to programm free channels for 8 seperate functions! Is it possible to do that with this equipment?
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I need a quick help for my question from yesterday! Thanks.
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You can use the 9X as a boat transmitter, but remember that the throttle stick will not return to neutral when you release it. All the switches can be programmed to perform a variety of functions, so yes, all 8 channels can be mapped and used.
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I am new to this business, I bought a trex 450 with battery lipo 11.1v 20c 3300map Do I need a separate receiver battery or can supply power from 11.1v the lipo and how do I connect it to a radio receiver ?
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You don’t need a seperate receiver battery as it will get power from the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). You plug the ESC into the motor and the receiver and then connect the battery to the deans connector on the ESC.
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ok thank you but now i need for new 2.4gh reciver for my Fly Sky FS-TH9X 9Ch Transmitter last one damaged do let know where can i purch new one
rgds
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ok thank you but now i need for new 2.4gh reciver for my Fly Sky FS-TH9X 9Ch Transmitter last one damaged do let know where can i purch new one
rgds
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No problem
What module do you have in your transmitter? Check on the back and let me know what the product code is. Receivers are limited to the module that you are using.
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2.4 Gmhz
module is FS TM OO1
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You can try HobbyKing.com, that’s were I got all of mine:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8440&aff=120355
and
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9429&aff=120355
Both work fine with the transmitter, unfotunately stock is running low at the moment, but they do get in quite often.
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Old RX … was it a single block RX – FS-R8B 8CH or the two block connected by fly-lead version – FS-R8A 8CH ?
They are specific to the Tx module you have and cannot be mixed.
My FlySky has FS TM 002 Tx module and the B version Rx .. you say you have the FS TM 001 Tx module – I would guess that you need the A version Rx …
One point to remember also is that the TX itself can accept either the 001 or 002 modules as well as FM .. 35, 40 and 72Mhz modules … but you must buy as paired with correct Rx … Once you know which Rx – then Rx alone can be bought to add to your model lists !
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I to had the switching error at turn on and thanks to you Darron your suggestion worked. Is there a better manuel available online. I also want to use this with a boat using 7 switchs for relays but need a little help on how to use the different switchs. The REC that was included didn’t have a battery pack, were would I get one that would attach to the receiver. Thanks Jack
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Hi Jack,
Glad I was of help. The FS-TH9X is exactly the same as the iMax 9X and the manual can be downloaded at http://www.skyrc.us/pdf/imax9x.pdf
You don’t need to use a seperate battery if you are running an electric boat as it will draw power from the speed controller.
I hope that helps,
Darron
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Darron, one other question, in the TX if you use rechargable batteries is the port on the side of the TX for a charger, if so where to get a charger that would be the correct voltage and size plug. Thanks Jack
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Hi Jack,
Yes, the port on the side is the charger port. I use a standard switching adapter. Head to your local electronics store and look for any adapter that will plug in there. Make sure that it will convert your local power into 12V – 1.5A direct current.
Kind regards,
Darron
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Best way to sort this is to get yourself an old Futaba Charger … the old one that was part of the M series system is best. Remember that plug should be centre pin +ve … so do NOT try a JR charger !! JR are centre pin -ve !!
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Nothing in the manual gives info how to range test the 2.4Ghz system … the instructions refer to the FM system with telescopic antena.
The TX Bind button says Range Test next to it – so anyone worked out how to use it ?
Cheers
Nigel
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Apparently you press and hold the bind button and do your range check as normal. It puts the transmitter into a low power mode.
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I just got new model of FS 8ch receiver and when pressed the bind button in back TX to bind nothing Happened
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Which RX ? A or B version … A has the second satelite module, B is without.
It has been noted that on some Rx’s – the Bind pins are not connected, and that Bind plug should be plugged into the Battery position.
Anyway – to bind : Switch of both Tx and Rx. Plug Bind lead into Bind position in RX … (if Bind fails – try Bat position …). Connect and switch on Rx side ….
Now Press and hold Bind button on back of TX and switch on TX … still pressing Bind button.
If you look carefully at RX – you will see a red LED inside case light up … if it’s steady light – then success.
Switch of both TX and RX … switch back on again and you should have connection.
As to Range check – I’m now told that when all switched on … you press and hold Bind Button while walking away .. operating controls … aim is to have 50 paces or more and still control. The Bind button when pressed AFTER switching on reduces TX power out to give range check.
Someone needs to get FlySky to rewrite the manual !!
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Dear friend HELLO
Did as you offer when plugged to bind place in receiver didn’t work therefore plugged in battery place and light Blinked when switch on Rx nothing happened and light still blinked???
Need your offer thanks
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[quote]Dear friend HELLO
Did as you offer when plugged to bind place in receiver didn’t work therefore plugged in battery place and light Blinked when switch on Rx nothing happened and light still blinked???
Need your offer thanks
[/quote]
You must have Black Bind button pressed in when switching on TX … and KEEP it pressed in until RX light changes. Once it changes you should be OK. Switch all of, connect servo and check operation.
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dear friend
i did pressed the bind button when switching on the TX but red light in RX still blinking ???
nissim
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…. did you KEEP TX button pressed in all time … you must keep it pressed in until light on RX changes.
If you did – then I ask What is model number of TX module ? FS-TM002 or FS-TM001
What is model number of RX ? FS-R8B or FS-R8A
Any other and also if not paired … TM002 with R8B, TM001 with R8A … they will not bind.
??
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Hi there
Iam planing to get this Rx from this dealer
(http://www.amax-toys.com/e/products/Model%20Parts/RC%20System/mr-gt9.html).
And its ce fcc Certified.. But wondering if this Tx compatable with Scherrer`s long range UHF RC system (http://www.webx.dk/rc/uhf-link3/uhf-link3.htm)
(http://www.webx.dk/rc/uhf-link3/manu-hw400.htm)
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Apparently some of them handle stong RF signals poorly. I found the following quote on the site:
“Turnigy 9X, some seems to handle strong RF signals poorly, like cell phone too close and LRS TX too close, affect display first”
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When my transmitter provides a short beep and gives the display label switch error, what should I do
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Switch all lever switches UP and ones on top to BACK … and throttle stick to minimum position.
This is a safety feature so the TX doesn’t switch on with anything actuated … it needs all at rest / normal settings and then no problem.
You do not need to switch of radio in fact … when you get “SWITCH ERROR……” … just look for that switch or stick that has been knocked or flipped from it’s normal start position…. put it correct and Tx will automatically enter initialise and start up.
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Darron, for my boat I have a speed controller that is attached by rod to a servo. The servo adjusts the speed. This is a Dumas Boat product that came with the boat. So do I wire the receiver directly to to the 11.1 v main battery along with the leads that go to the speed controller. If so where would you get the power plug that would connect from the battery to plug into the receiver. Thanks Jack
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For this type of setup you will need a seperate receiver battery. 11.1v would be too much and would burn out the receiver. Receiver batteries come with a connector that allows you to plug it directly into the bat. connector on the receiver.
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as Darron says – the 11.1V would burn out the RX ….
Ebay and others do RX batterys of 4.8V … usually 4 AA size NiMH in a pack … with required lead. Or visit local Hobby Shop … they’ll likely have something suitable.
Another way to solve this if you do not need ‘reverse’ on the motor is to replace the mechanical speed control board / Servo with an ESC … but you would need to know what Amps are pulled by the motor.
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Hello All ! Can anyone tell me ,if this is a park flyer ,or full range transmitter ?
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With regard to the TH-9X … definitely not a park-flyer set – it is full range … There are reports online in various forums that both Vers A and Vers B Module / RX ‘s will operate over 1 kilomtre, one test with Vers B ( the single block RX ) achieved near 2 kilometres.
Of course main consideration is that RX antenna is clear and not shielded by batterys, metal etc. Remember that carbon fibre is a very good shielding material and should be taken into account in its location.
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dear sirs
i just got Crystal receiver 72mhz to my old tx now please do let know if i conect 4.8v battery NIMH to my crystal rx will no be problem whan i add the ESC(which have 11.1v 2200mah)to same rx
rgds
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Thanks For the reply Nigel! As for the ” i just got Crystal receiver 72mhz to my old tx now please do let know if i conect 4.8v battery NIMH to my crystal rx will no be problem whan i add the ESC(which have 11.1v 2200mah)to same rx ”
I think you want to ,Just use the ESC and not The 4.8 volt battery,most Good ESC Have BEC ”Battery eliminator Circuit” in them ,SO NO NEED FOR 4.8
I think You might be ably to do this ??? Not 100% sure ??
But if you want to use the 4.8 volts ? You Can If you remove the signal wire from the ESC ,This will send 11.1 v To the Motor and the 4.8 v will be for the servos.
Please Check this out frist With others,Before you try it.
I hope This helps Regards len
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dear friend
i thank you for all info i think you are right and will take your advice
rgds
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It is sweet that you blogged about this. I found you on yahoo and I had been looking for information about this. Nice site, thank you for the info. I will come back to check for new updates
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Hello my name is luis fernando of the city of chiapas mexico.
I need help to programme the control.
Can someone help me?.
Control fs-th9x.
I need the steps to continuing..
That to do first.
That to make second.
I cannot programme the control.
If manual exists in Spanish.
Been grateful.
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My TX is 2.4 Gmhz
module is FS TM OO1
and have two RX R8B
Ist OK?
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Nissim … unfortunately you have wrong Rx for that Tx module.
For R8B Rx – you need FS-TM002 Tx module.
For your FS-TM001 Tx module – you need R8A Rx … the first generation that has two Rx’s connected for dual reception.
So the choice is yours … buy the second generation TM002 Tx module and use your R8B Rx’s or change Rx’s for R8A …. all are available on Ebay … Maybe you can exchange with seller for correct versions ?
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dear friend
i thank you for all info but you know good seller should say somthings befor offer products
thanks
rgds
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All adverts I have seen especially on ebay do have comment at bottom of page about paired Tx + Rx modules …
I’m sorry that you have bought wrong Rx for your Tx .. maybe have a word with the seller ? I would certainly contact seller and try agree solution.
I hope that you are not put of the radio system …
I don’t know what differences there are in the two module systems, other than TM002 and R8B are suppoed to be latest versions. But it is known that you cannot mix vers 1 and 2 modules.
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Dear friends
Have old RX futaba (TX CONQWEST) AM 72mhz can bind to my new FS 9ch TM 001?
RGDS
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I doubt that very much as a) you are quoting both Tx’s, b) most brand radios are now not compatible with each other. It is why such companys as Corona and FrSky have made good money crossing that bridge.
So many companys now are using slightly different technology in their signals or in case of FM frequencies – the channel assignments do not match up.
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Hello sir
My name is Elisha
I have questions
1) I have a remote control SANWA EXELENS old green color and works well.
I bought a Corona RP6D1 SYNTHESIZED receiver and I can not make a Bind?
2) I have remote control of FS 2.4G. Also has a regular antenna
Can I DO Bind TO this Remote control
If so how?
Thank you
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I very much doubt you can .. as I understand it – FlySky will only bind with it’s own brand and model. You can bind with different channel RX … ie 3ch, 4ch, 6ch etc. – but they must be FlySky and respect the version of Module you have.
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Hi all VERY new at RC helis so I need some advise. On a 6ch recievers from other brands the channels are marked trottle, rudder etc. but on my 8ch they are just marked 1 2 3 etc. can anyone tell me which numbers go to what?
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OK … Fixed wing airplane :
Ch 1 = Aileron, Ch 2 = Elevator, Ch 3 = Throttle / ESC, Ch 4 = Rudder, Ch 5,6,7,8 are Aux cxh’s that you assign via the menu.
Helicopter :
Ch 1 = Cyclic roll, Ch 2 = Cyclic fwd, back, Ch 3 = Throttle / ESC, Ch 4 = Tail rotor, Ch 5 = Gyro, Ch 6 = Pitch Trim, Ch 7 = Hover Throttle, Ch 8 = Hover Pitch … note Ch’s 5,6,7,8 as above are as you decide in Aux menu.
Hope it helps … basically the ch’s are asignable and therefore not always correspond to labels .. plus the radio is a Plane and Heli suited item …
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dear friend
please do let know if can work out ; my Fly Sky FS-TH9X with RX graupner/jr CHEP 53mhz/30mz 7ch(old one)
rgds
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dear friend
do let know if my Fly Sky FS-TH9X can work out with my old RX graupner/jr 53mhz/30hz
rgds
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Hello sir
I want to buy Fly Sky remote control
How do I know which remote control
has the Throttle on the left side
What is the difference between
2.4G 9 Channel remote TX and RX for helicopter and Airplane mode 1 FS-TH9X
To
2.4G 9 Channel remote TX and RX for Heli , Airplane, mode 2 FS-TH9X
thanks
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Hello my friend ! the modes can be switched from mode 1 or 2 in the setup menu,under “stick set” the only different’s might be ,where the “flight mode switch” is located on the right side of the transmitter ,instead of on the left side.
hope this helps ? Regards len
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What meens “using PPM” in your Conclusion?
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Hello my friend ! PPM /PCM ,PPM is pulse position modulation “All so called FM” ,PCM is pulse code modulation “Am” . We need to use PPM on this transmitter,to bind to the 2.4 g recievers. A note here, we loose ch 9 in this mode,and the failsafe mode ,will not work . This is the same way with lots of transmitter .
Hope this helps ? Regards len
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Hello all ! Just a note ,Something to watch out for.If you plan on using a different battery from stock ? Look real close at the orignal battery plug , it has a 3 pin plug on it, and the pin on the right is not used ,the center pin is positive, and the far left is negitive. If you plug in the battery ,wrong “red on the right side,and on pin # 3″ of the transmitter, it will smoke . please don’t ask me how I know this. One more thing when binding the recievers, I have found that ,the bind plug has to go in the second port from top / battery port . and not the top “bind” port for some reason ?at least on mine, this was the only way it worked.
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I have stayed with the clip in separate recharge NiMH’s in the battery tray without trouble. I have a made up power pack I could put in instead but would mean re-arranging the cells in it … and then of course sorting the plug. Keeping to the original battery tray means I can charge up my NiMH’s without trouble via the charge port in the side.
Bind – the Bind Port on the RX is a well known fault, but still catches out many … look back through this site and you’ll see quite a few references to it.
There’s also a Fly Sky Users group on Yahoo if anyone interested … http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
I started it up to try and focus info and data into a useable structure ….
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Hello my friend ! Glad to see you here,I have a question for you ,If you dont mind? I would like to set up this transmitter ,with only one switch for D/R on all channels. Any ideal on how to do this? Thank You Regards len
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DR on one switch ? I have no idea … I’m so used to DR’s on separates – I’ve never considered having all on one … there are times I want full of one control and not of another … ie landing – Full Rudder rate and reduced aileron etc.
On the Yahoo group – are guys who are into re-programming the Firmware of the Tx … maybe they have an answer ?
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Thank You Sir, for your Reply! I will give them guys a try?? , most of my other transmitter have this option,and its the only way I’am used to. Regards len
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Hi Guys,
I’m jolly glad I stumbled on this web page as I have just received this Transmitter and receivers. To my horror when I first switched it on I got the “switch error” message which sent me back to the instruction book. No mention of what it meant so my first thought was I’ve bought a faulty one.
I saw the website of the company so went there to see what I could find and found this review. In there was the answer and now my tranny is working. What a relief that I don’t have to send it back to Hong Kong straight away.
I wonder how many others have this trouble and what an error not to mention it in the instr. book unless I missed something.
Thanks again for this help.
Barrie
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Not only this radio … but my 6ch Heli job copy of the Futaba basic 6 does this as well … if switches not in correct place … error.
I think it’s actually a good idea – as it is a sort of safety feature to some degree.
Try out Yahoo group for this radio as well : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
These radios and the rebranded ones are sure to become more seen as people catch on to them …
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Hello again,
Having got the transmitter to work I now find I cannot get any response from the receiver. I have done all the suggestions above to bind it and I get nothing. I noted the led flashing on the receiver and once I held in the bind button this led remains steady but still no response with any servo on any channel. What’s more if I switch the receiver off and on again the led is once more flashing.
I read above about matching tranny to receiver model but where does it state the type of each. My receivers are both a single item ie no separate module attached and both do not work.
The tranny says it’s PCM but it’s supposed to be PPM/PCM selectable. I have it set to PPM. Is that an issue?
Until now I have always bought Futaba 35 meg. and never had any problems whatsoever. They’ve always worked first time. This new system might be good when it works but “when” is the operative word.
Barrie
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Me again,
Breath easy, I’ve now got mine working OK. My trouble was I was not removing the Binding loop after going through the set up.
There is no doubt that what this product lacks is a good English instruction book. There should be some good jobs going in China for English speaking people to prepare instruction manuals for the Chinese because they are hopeless at that. Even the menu instructions leave a lot to be desired and the printing is of very poor quality.
The video rather glosses over it all because that helicopter model flyer was obviously quite experienced. I’m sure it is easy when you know how, like all computer programs.
Any way I’m jolly glad I found the help I did here because it might have been on it’s way back to China if I hadn’t.
Cheers, Barrie
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Was just about to post – Did you take bind plug out !! I did this when first got radio and had me swearing and cursing ! Then when I realised ….. so simple.
Good to see all’s well.
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Glad to hear ,that you have it working now! Barrie . I was having a problem, when binding also,Spent hours trying to bind any of the 5 receivers I have with this transmitter.
I was getting the one flash from the LED, when switch on and off like you ,and at one point ,I had it work ,but only if I held the transmitter within one foot from receiver, “Not much of a range check” It was not untill I pluged, the bind plug in the second port from the top of the receiver ,marked the “battery” and not in the bind port,as marked on the receivers for some reason ? Now all my receivers worked fine . Hope this helps Someone,who might be going through the same thing?? Regards len
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Hello sir
I have a question
THE ESC has three cables that connect to the engine
How do I know where each cable connects
Thank you
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it will not matter witch ones you plug in where, as long as the motor spins in the right direction you got it right ,if it spins backwards ,just switch any 2 wires and this will make the motor spin in the right direction. hope this helps
Regards len
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I back up Luckylenny’s reply …. basically you have 3 leads that excite the motor … the ESC swaps power around combinations of the leads to get the motor to excite. There is no real +ve / -ve like on a brushed motor as such … so yes : As LL says … plug in – test and see which way motor turns. If correct – I suggest mark 2 of the leads with tape or small ‘flags’ so that you can take apart later and connect correct on re-assembly.
If motor turns wrong way – swap ANY two leads over … that’s right ANY two leads … test.
If motor just pulses when connected – that indicates a faulty connection on 1 or more leads. You can get the motor to slowly jerk around by having 2 leads connected … so this is a good indicator of lead / windings problem.
Anyway – this is a FlySky radio review site !!
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Hello,
Well now I have everything up and running I am quite impressed with the facilities it offers once you can read between the lines of that wretched manual. Read the bit about the Timer to see what I mean! Is that double Dutch or what? Luckily I know what it means from my Futaba set and it is a useful feature. Good for the money undoubtedly though you have to take into account that this is just the bare bones, no servos batteries trays etc. I do like the display and thankfully they have somehow managed to spell that correctly.
I’m new to this 2.4MHz system so I ask the question do you have to extend the very long telescopic aerial for good range or is the short stubby one on the module sufficient? Why both?
Cheers, Barrie
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Ignore the standard telescopic antena … that’s there for FM Module if you want it … ( 35, 40, 72Mhz etc. ).
On some of the rebranded sets – that antena has been removed and case plugged.
I actually use mine for attaching a pendant to so I can extend up for seeing wind direction ! Years of using 35Mhz sets I suppose …
Onto the lack of gear with it … servos etc. are so cheap now for general use … and many people are using ESC’s with BEC now to power the RX.
I read complaints about the display, the beep when you press a button … personally I like the beep as then I know the button has actioned. The display and it’s quirks – you soon get used to.
I suppose I have come from pre-computerised RC radio and this is my first Computer based one – previous was a 8ch JR Propo with switches and watch-makers screwdriver in trimmers to mix / set up the radio … so I’m impressed with the FlySky … it certainly does all I want.
Hint : The Tx on a neckstrap doesn’t balance very well … try extending the telescopic antena bit by bit till you get it balanced ………
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I have the 001 tx does any one know of a web site or dealer where i can get additional rx. Jack
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Hello ! check out this site ,I hope this is alright??? If not? I’am sorry .for Less then $10 usd ,best price I have found so far, @ http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12339 I hope this is ok ?? Regards len
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NO NO NO !!! The Hobbyking Rx linked there is for the 002 Tx and will not work with a 001.
You can tell immediately which Rx … 001 Tx module requires the 2 block RX .. that is the main Rx that also has a second satelite Rx … the early 2.4Ghz set-up where they gave you two Rx’s and antenas to get best signal.
The 002 Tx module pairs with the later second generation single block Rx that does not have the second satelite Rx.
The HK product linked above is the single block Version 2 RX for 002 Tx Modules.
Both Version Modules are plentiful on ebay …..
Version 1 : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FlySky-2-4Ghz-6CH-receiver-FS-R6A-RC-CT6B-TH9x-/300486303529?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item45f6611f29
Version 2 : (for 002 TX Modules) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FlySky-2-4Ghz-6CH-receiver-FS-R6B-RC-CT6B-TH9x-/300486303549?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item45f6611f3d
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Hi all,
I don’t want to be a kill joy but I have some evidence of dishonesty in dealing with some Chinese dealers. I won’t name names but my son bought one of these sets from one dealer and it turned out to be faulty, wouldn’t work at all. So he duly sent it back with a letter explaining all the facts.
Six months later and he still hasn’t got a replacement and the company are denying having received it. My son has proof that it did get there because it was sent recorded delivery. Never the less he is getting nowhere. We are talking in his case of goods worth over £100.
At the moment I am having trouble with a short fall in my order having ordered two extra receivers, making three in total. I have, so far, only received two and am having trouble with the dealer in accepting my claim. I am convinced it is a packing error. OK so it’s no big deal a receiver costing less than £10 but there is a principle here and I don’t like this sort of thing. Unlike dealing direct with a UK dealer we are rather remote from China and there is an obvious language barrier on both sides.
All I say is buyer beware, all is not what it should be!
Barrie
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That’s a sad story and I hope you both get some solution. I have a case that paypal and ebay failed to sort, which is another Chinese seller who misrepresented the Heli 450 he sells – It’s an Upforce 450 – clone of the Trex 450se V2. He lists it as a Trex 450 3D RTF …. and it’s cheap at under 100 UK Pounds. He also states that 49.99 UK Pounds is international shipping wherever. I bought and paid … then get email asking another $25 as shipping is more expensive. I paid it as total was still interesting price. 450 arrives and looks nothing like ebay listing. Radio has fault in the LCD screen – it’s a Radiolink T6EHP-E heli radio copy of basic Futaba 6. I contacted him and after a few emails where I’ve told him return shipping cost is higher than buying a new radio – to be told “Buy new radio then”. Paypal and ebay resolution centre did nothing except tell me ship back with tracking number – despite my telling them it was expensive and I lose all that. Finally they closed the case with no solution. I then gave total negative feedback to seller who immediately contacted me asking why I was being unfair to him ! Explained all again … he offered me $20 compensation … as I told him – that doesn’t even cover the extra shipping he asked for … so he upped to $25. I countered explaining all the work to put right assemblers errors on 450 etc. Never got another reply. It’s apparent that some Chinese sellers as these rely on the sheer hassle and distance / costs to send anything back …
I’ve repaired all myself at my cost as it’s cheaper than sending back.
But my FlySky radio is still working perfectly and very happy with it – the two are not from same seller or connected.
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Well I am pleased to say that after some emails to and fro and clearing up a language misunderstanding issue my supplier has agreed to rectify the short fall in my order so I feel more confident to order again from them.
In fairness to them no company never makes a mistake and I’m sure they might come across the odd dishonest buyer. However this language problem is a problem, and again I sympathise with the Chinese because English is so far removed from Chinese. I cannot ever see the West learning Chinese even our keyboards cannot write it. They would do well to think hard about employing English nationals to write their manuals for them and with out unemployment growing there is a fine opportunity for some. Perhaps the salary might be a problem???
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More on this transmitter:
I have now taken the step of replacing the supplied dry battery holder with a commercial set of welded rechargables connected via a Futaba plug and socket. I was doubly careful to get the polarity correct. I initial tried it with dry cells but they soon dropped below 9 volts and it started bleeping to remind me. I do not like spring connectors.
I wonder what the consumption rate is with this set?
I am still struggling to find out how to test all the channels. So far I’ve got all the basic stick channels working and Gear on channel 5. Channels 6,7 & 8 elude me at present. How do I get a servo to work on those, say for flaps? Do I have to use the mixer option?
Thanks, Barrie
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Hello guys ! just to add to Nigel’s reply ,
.
“Steps : .. to Func Setting .. – now you should have the Func Setting page 1 of 2 showing. You click through till you get the top right choice : [AUX-CH] …. now you should see all aux ch’s 5 thru 9 … Normally 5 will be highlighted first .. you can now press to see the choices one by one ”
in this mode,if you plug in a servo into any of the, 5 thru 8 ch’s , “only in ppm mode”, 9 ch’s in pcm mode ,you will now pick witch switch or nob will make it work, with 5 different choices on each channels. Note on ch 6 The Throttle hold ,gear,hovering Throttle and hovering pitch,
“will no work ” at lesat in the heli mode, I’am not sure about plane mode or glider ?
about the battery, I use a 2200mah 11.1 volt li-poly, made for transmitter with the right plugs on them, for Jr /futaba and fits many others ,like this transmitter. i have seen the volt metter go up to 12.5 volts so far ,as i did not fully charge the battery yet.Just a note watch witch pins you plug the battery on to. regards len
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OK … this is a point that many have made and use to justify reflashing the firmware. In fact Thro Hold, Hov throt and Hov Pitch DO work – but they affect the Thro + Pitch curves in normal mode.
If you have the Normal mode curve displayed on screen and then alter the knob for respective – you will see the mid point change up and down to fine-tune the curve. Hov Pitch for Pitch curve … Hov Thr for Thro curve ….
Throttle Hold is intended for Ch 5 as I understand it, what to do if you have retracts on a heli … that I have to work out.
I have a test rig that I will try and find out …
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Hi,
As I see it for those of us who only fly fixed wing models it matters not what they call a function because we simply plug a servo into that channel and use it for whatever control we want. Having said that some functions such as gear are either one way or the other, no in between settings are needed, therefore any switch allocation will do.
Flaps may need varying settings so we would need to allocate those to a rotary function and I have done that ok with this tranny. I have to admit though that most models I fly just need the basic stick functions. Retracts can be more trouble than they are worth but it does depend on the aircraft modelled.
I once saw a one third scale Mustang with one wheel that refused to lock down. The pilot was very skilled and brought it down in very long grass with minimal damage. A lovely model in every respect.
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Hi … I’ve been setting up a new heli and had the radio on for 5 hrs … I have 2300 mAH NiMH batterys in the dry-cell slots … initial voltage after charging showed 10.9V … which my set has never shown above … but in reality is probably .2 or .3 higher …. My other radio with same cells in shows 11.2V when charged. After 5hrs continuous on the FlySky shows 9.7V on screen and actual meter on each cell gives total of 10.1V … average cell Voltage of 1.25V, fully charged is usually about 1.37 … 1.4V … = max 11.2V, discharged without damage expect 1.1V = 8.8V … advised bottom level by many battery charger manufacturers is 1.0V per cell…. but I would use caution at such low levels.
Therefore looking at the numbers .. full charged is 11.2V, I stopped at 10.1 after 5hrs, with another approx. 2V to go before discharged … but TX alarm would have gone off long before then I reckon … So I woulod reckon a good set of battery’s of the 2000+ mAH size – should give you over 10hrs use…. is that enough ? That would be a good weekends flying + a couple of days on top !
I have had no problem with spring battery carriers … in fact I used to do aerobatics and display flying years ago with my own RX battery packs based on clip in carriers … meant I could service my packs better by replacing cells etc. easier.
How to get the channels up ….
Ch’s 1 – 4 are easy as they are already set to the sticks. The others are set by you via menu.
Steps : .. to Func Setting .. – now you should have the Func Setting page 1 of 2 showing. You click through till you get the top right choice : [AUX-CH] …. now you should see all aux ch’s 5 thru 9 … Normally 5 will be highlighted first .. you can now press to see the choices one by one ….
When I first got my set – I spent hours sitting at the desk going through the menu checking out each item … well worth the effort.
Good luck.
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Sorry … I cannot correct my post above … but Ch 5 on Heli is intended for Gyro Sense. Thro Hold – I have now taken of Ch 5 and will investigate how it works.
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ok … thro hold is NOT assigned any ch. I have just tested and it works. Thr hold is set via its own menu item and does not need to be assigned in the aux setup. But throttle MUST be connected via ch 3 ..
Ch 5 is now empty and can be used for Retracts or other as wished. Only bug bear is that Ch 5 is FlySky preferred Gyro sense ch.
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hi , can anyone help me?? When i try to use aileron rates the ailerons go to locked full deflection , and stay there, they dont go back to normal. I have to turn off everything and try again.. the rates work in the locked position , but just move in the full deflection a bit , no full up down fuction??/
I may have engaged airbrakes??? can anyone help.? ron
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Have you changed Model to an empty slot in the menu and tried that ? You may have set Flaps, Spoilers function inadvertently or created a mix on your usual model set-up.
Check your rates setting in menu … maybe you have set it incorrectly ?
I’ve just switched on my set and gone to an empty model slot … then settings … DR / Expo … select AIL for aileron … DR switch off …. now move stick and you’ll see LINE move across the graph indicating your control command. You should go from centre – to full left / right corresponding to stick.
Now switch ON DR …. try again … you will also see the numbers change against entries DR and Expo … If DR is saying 100% and Expo is 000% – then you should see exactly same LINE movement. Alter the DR % and you will see the effect it has without having to connect a servo … you can see it on the display when moving stick.
Helped ?
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I think that with possibility of Chip and computer based programming … it opened up the world to create a jack of all trades TX …
When looking at Aux ch set-up, the knobs and switches on the TX itself – it appears that factory may have had Helicopters as primary in mind ?
I agree that with Fixed wing – life is a bit simpler usually as we only need servo dedicated in each ch. and very litle mixing. Heli’s on the other hand are all about mixing – take swashplate control … the balance an egg on a plate glass sheet that is moving all the time ! Needs all 3 servos working together to maintain the equilibrium.
I have to admit that before even getting to the radio – the mechanics of heli control is a difficult concept and when rotors don’t quite dip or tend in direction needed – it takes sheer mental work to arrive at solution – THEN go into set-up on the tranny to try it out.
Anyway … nice to see people getting on with it … and of course all welcome on Yahoo group as well : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
Back to Thro Hold …. do not bother setting this to any ch. – it is not necessary. Just connect throttle to Ch 3 and activate Thro Hold via it’s own Menu entry and it will work on that back left switch on top. You can set the throttle position to -50 to +50% of throttle range.
cheers
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Dear Sir,I purchased FS -TH9X at Hongkong. I removed the module from the transmitter as the antina screw was lose.
when I was tighting the nut of the antina .the antina wire came off from the PC board.I need your help where to solder the antina wire on PC board of the TX module.
I request your help where I should resolder the antina wire.
thankink you csaguptha
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Hi,
Can you not see where the wire was attached? How did you get to see the circuit board? I’ve not taken mine apart and wouldn’t do so unless I had to.
Does the transmitter not work now?
It might be better to simply buy a new module if it doesn’t. I’m no expert but I would say this module is a critical part of the whole thing and will be tuned to that antenna.
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Hi everyone,
I am finding one or two little problems with this tranny. Having set up the first model I decided to move to a second one. The name was left as it comes except that I changed the #1 to a #2. All the servos seemed to work as #1 except I have to allocate channels 5-8 in the usual way.
Then I tried to set the Timer the same as the first model ie 20 mins. It refuses to accept that!!! Yes it will accept 21 mins or any other time but 20 mins. I wonder why.
The only way I have fooled it it to use the copy function.
I am also still concerned about battery consumption. One guy said he uses lipo batteries but I think that is risky. He may find his tranny go up in flames one day if he’s not careful. I have a cheap 2600milliamp/hr Ni MH battery pack installed but it seems to drop the voltage too quickly for my liking. My old Futaba 35meg tranny is fitted with an eneloop battery pack and holds it’s charge for weeks on end.
These are excellent batteries though dearer of course. I rather think I may splash out for another one for this Flysky set and hope that it doesn’t drop as fast as this one does.
Oh before I forget I said there weren’t any spelling mistakes in the tranny interface. How wrong I was, there are a few. Of course when the mark 2 model comes out they may have taken the hint and consulted with an English person to sort out the manual and the interface.
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Will have a look at model setups on mine as I have 3 setups (incl. SIM).
No problem – I have 7 mins set on my Fixed Wing ME109 and I set the other 2 models to 7 mins and both worked with 7 mins without problem. One thing I’ve noticed is that some items require short press MENU button to retain setting … others you can just EXIT from.
Batterys – I really do not understand the LiPo thing – I’ve read forums that wax on and on about using them … Why ? I prefer standard rechargeables and you can then charge via fitted socket without worry … not so with LiPo …
As to battery drain – I think as the TX only needs part of the voltage – there is a resistor in there that basically ‘burns off’ excess as heat … this means that even though we have excess voltage from our 8 cells – we do not gain benefit from it. There is the matter of memory and whether the Tx is still using a small amount when Off ? I get an estimated 10hrs from 2300mAH 8 cell AA’s … which is lower than I expected – but still more than enough for my needs. It equals about 70 flight packs worth of flying !!
There is also the fact that my TX display shows a voltage about 0.3V lower than it really is. It’s worth putting a meter on to check against the display.
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Hi Nigel,
What I found with the timer is that having set the time of 20 mins I press the Menu button to set it and the value immediately reverts to zero. If I set it to 21 mins it remains set at that when I press Menu. This didn’t happen when I set up model 1.
I will try a short press on model 3
Your 10 hr battery life is more than enough but is that operating servos as in a flight. I wasn’t referring to standby battery life but more whilst switched and doing a few changes. Perhaps making settings in the menu consumes more power. The real proof of the pudding will be to fly with it.
Interesting that the voltage displayed is not completely accurate, perhaps they play on the safe side. I have never flown my models until the warning buzzer sounds.
Barrie
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stange on the timer …
10hrs is actual use based on metering before and after a 5hr session – which radio was on continuous and setting up a second Heli, operating servos etc.
After the 5hrs my battery voltage displayed had dropped similar amount to that metered – so at least useage is accurate, even though actual voltage displayed may not be.
… storage – the batterys stay up for weeks …. but I have a 50mAH charger that literally stays plugged in now … so batterys are always full.
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Hi Nigel,
It looks like you were right about the short press for the timer. I tried 20 mins on model 3 setting and it accepted that with a short Menu press. We might eventually get all the answers with this tranny. So far I’ve not been able to test it in a model yet but a range check will be next, I will get my wife to observe how it behaves on the ground.
I’m sure that the voltage displayed is more than .3 volts error though I must check directly on the battery. I have a charger that indicates voltage as it charges and it had reached 12.6 on that where the tranny display never exceeds 10.6 volts no matter how long I charge it. My 35 Meg set easily reaches 11.6 indicated on it’s display.It matters not as long as a reasonable flying time is available. This charger I have is capable of charging off my car battery so I will never be stuck. I can set the trickle charge rate so it’s quite useful
Barrie
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Range check … if you can believe the machine :
Switch on Tx and Rx. Now press Bind button on Tx module …. walk away from model operating sticks. There is no quoted min range you should attain – but I would suggest 70 paces is good. I get over 120 paces and then it’s starting to get hard to see model surfaces but my set is still working fine.
While I walk away – I try to orientate the Tx to many different aspects to the model, so that I am not just checking best relative aspect to Rx antena …. so far no glitches, no loss of connection … 120 paces and I reckon I can go much further – if my eyes were better !!
The Bind button in this mode is a signal reducer alowing you to range check over a shorter distance.
If anyone has a more defined distance for this range check then I and many would be very interested.
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I was wondering if you could tell me what batteries did you use for this FLYSKY FS-TH9X unit as I have looked everywhere and can not find them. I even tried AA ones and the back will not close. Please Help me out!!!
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Hello
I Use A Li-poly 11.1 volt 2200mAh battery ,Made for transmitter’s with 3 plug’s on them 1 for Jr ,1 for futaba,the 3rd for balance charging.
hope this helps ?
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The battery case will only allow back to close one way … so turn the case 90 degs and it will fit … the cable needs to be folded and placed at one end and not on top of case.
The back cover doesn’t slide on as most click covers do … I find I put it on vertically and then click it down and then about a 1-2mm it slides to lock.
I use standard 2600mAh NiMH AA’s placed in the supplied battery case. I have had trouble with the case where it is very tight fit for the AA’s and they sometimes do not make good contact at ends. I then have inserted folded card into the negative spring contacts forcing them to stay long and press harder on the AA’s … this has cured 100% that matter.
I get about 9hrs use from those 2600mAH AA’s and they stay charged for weeks without problem. I have a Futaba standard charger to keep them topped up between flights.
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Hi,
As I see it for those of us who only fly fixed wing models it matters not what they call a function because we simply plug a servo into that channel and use it for whatever control we want. Having said that some functions such as gear are either one way or the other, no in between settings are needed, therefore any switch allocation will do.
Flaps may need varying settings so we would need to allocate those to a rotary function and I have done that ok with this tranny. I have to admit though that most models I fly just need the basic stick functions. Retracts can be more trouble than they are worth but it does depend on the aircraft modelled.
I once saw a one third scale Mustang with one wheel that refused to lock down. The pilot was very skilled and brought it down in very long grass with minimal damage. A lovely model in every respect.
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Confusion here those were my comments
Barrie
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Back in 80′s – I had a 48″ wingspan Spitfire that I fitted mechanical retracts to. They worked – but I had trouble keeping the legs set to length and aspect. The body of the retract mechanism was a plastic block with grub screw tightening onto the straight piano rod leg. The leg would turn, get pushed up when taking off – such that wheel would jam the leg when retracting … I tried filing a flat on the leg, I tried supergluing .. I tried all sorts to stop the legs moving in that block – gave up in the end.
I left them in for scale effect and to show off on low passes !! Rest of time was belly flop landings and hand launches ………
I did find another use for the gear switch on my JR … bomb drops !
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Hello all ! Just want to bring up something ,I have found and don’t realy like !it’s when I was setting up a second heli ,with the Binding and setup all done, on a different model # and name .by accident I turned on heli # 1 ,without switching the transmitter to heli # 1 ,and most ,if not all servos worked ??? this is not right ?,so I switched the transmitter heli # 1 ,all was fine ,so I turned on heli # 2 and it all worked ? So I pluged in a 3rd reciever to heli # 3 and the same thing happens. I’am no to sure if I want to install #s 4 and 5 .Whats the point in model slection ? if the thing has more then 1 channle, and should be using 2 at all times . how cad this be
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There is nothing wrong with your radio and it’s understandable. The TX cannot send out different codes just based on different models. It only has one code that uses to bind. The RX is waiting to hear that code to synch with and bind to. Take out plug etc. and bingo. But it means that if you switch on all of your RX’s at one time – they will all dance to your TX whatever model you select.
OK this confused me at first as I expected each RX to only listen to the model it was set-up for … but think about it. You bind the RX … but there is no command or menu to dictate which model is bound.
Logic says that you will not have two models on at same time with 1 Tx …
Second I have read instructions for other “bespoke” radios costing a lot more and often recc’d by other forums etc. – they specifically state “Ensure correct Model is selected on Tx before switch on model” … so that indicates this is not only Flysky matter.
Model memory is purely to remember trims, settings, mixing etc. for that specific model – the RX will react to any signal from that bound Tx regardless.
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The dx7, will not move servos in the wrong model. at all.
so when will the A,F,H,D,S come to play, if not in binding?
Automatic frequency hopping digital system . sounds like more then one frequency. or is that why we bind to one ch, then the second freq comes in ,after bound ?
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Hi,
Surely this is a simple issue. Simply give each model a number, then select that number of your transmitter. All the relevant settings for that model like trim etc will then work correctly.
Even though all your receivers work from one model number the trim and other settings only apply to the model number selected. This is no different to selecting a model by name.
It is up to you to select the right one for the model you want to fly.
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This is not actually the issue … his post is questioning the basis of the FlySky Freq. hopping and Model assigned memory. These are two separate issues and not dependent on each other.
I posted various info about Model Match as per JR and that no-other non JR related radio has this. So FlySky is not different to millions of other radios out there … what model memory you have active does not mean other RX’s bound to the Tx will not operate.
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Are we saying that this transmitter might operate someone else’s model or that it will work more than one receiver bound to it?
The first would be serious, the second of no bother unless you want to fly two models at the same time. That I would like to see!
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Of course we are NOT saying it will operate another TX’s Rx … that’s what binding is for – to keep a Rx only operating to the Tx that you bind to.
What we are talking about here is a single Tx operating multiple Rx’s … that ALL are bound to that one Tx. Some people expect binding to isolate each Rx to each separate model memory on that TX … but this does not happen unless you have a JR or Spektrum system … all others appear to work same as here ….. and that includes Futaba …
Please read carefully the subject … FlySky radio systems operate good interference rejection on 2.4Ghz … they have good model memory system …. they bind to their Rx’s same as many other high priced expensive systems … there is no problem except to make sure you have correct model memory selected for model / sim you wish to fly.
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AFHDS and Binding are two completely separate issues and was where I was confused on first encountering this.
I have various flyers I know out here who use various radios … Multiplex, JR, Spectrum etc. and I am not aware that any of them display any different characteristic in this regard. When I meet them again – I will check again.
Binding links a specific TX to its RX’s. The RX then knows the ID code and frequency hopping of that TX which is unique. Therefore unless in a particularly crowded flight site – the Tx and Rx should be able to find a slot to work with.
As to other RX’s – only those bound to that Tx will be able to operate with it, now my info is that very few Tx’s, if any at all actually transmit a separate ID code for each model set-up they memorise. That would call upon extra coding and parrelel system.
Binding does not bind 1 ch or 1 frequency – it binds a source of frequency hopping and it’s unique code. taking this further … I would not expect a companys Tx’s to use any different spread or sequence of freq’s in it’s hopping .. all Tx’s would hop the same, but they have a unique identifier so that Rx knows which Tx to listen to. Each Tx would then hop to stay out of interference with another Tx … the Rx following the Tx so fast that loss of signal as it picks up the next does not affect your use. It is said, but not proven – I have suspicion that it’s a comment made to scupper sales of cheaper gear – that gear such as this only uses a few of the available freq’s to hop on .. one claim was 4. That’s ludicrous surely. What economy would be made by restricting the chip ?
As I see it do not confuse binding with AFHDS … they are two separate issues completely.
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Interesting – I’ve tried my Radiolink 6ch – direct copy of the Futaba 6EH …. that does exactly same.
My Trex 450 Heli is set on model memory 1 … while switched on and motor disabled – I switched TX to model 2 … my Heli immediately responded to control inputs …
I’ve posted the question on various forums to get a cross sectional answer … to verify which way it is …
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Answers so far indicate that only JR and late Spectrum has Model specific Rx and memory …. so as I said – it is not a matter specific to cheap radios and the Flysky in particular.
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Here’s an answer I rec’d confirming my statement above :
quote > The main Spektrum transmitters have model Match: DX6i, DX7, DX8 (also JR X9303). The Spektrum modules installed in a transmitter with multiple memories do NOT have Model Match. And of course, it doesn’t apply to the DX5e.
It did not apply the the original DX6 system either. Perhaps that is what your friend has.
Model Match ensures that the receiver only responds to the specific model memory to which it is bound.
Note that nothing prevents two receivers (or more) being bound to the same model memory. In fact, you can even fly two models at the same time (though it’s not generally recommended as you can’t control them independently!).
No other RC system has model match. So it’s possible to operate the model with the wrong memory selected. This is the cause of quite a few crashes — when the model takes off with ailerons reversed, for example. < unquote
So Flysky is only with the majority of radio systems … not a fault.
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Hello all ! Thank’s ,for clearing this up , and in no way do or will I “knock” this trasmitter,so far I love it. and most of my club members have spektrum’s, as I do ,the dx6 . so I know This was diffrent. and this took me by surprise.
the reason I purchased this transmitter ,is $$$, and I needed a extra ch for the governor off /on on my trex 600
and the cost to buy the dx8 and 5 receivers ,well a no brainer. Take Care all ! Regards len
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Hi all.
Yes I agree this set is remarkable value for money but has it occurred to anyone that by buying off the Chinese (I’m just as guilty) we are putting our people out of work? Virtually everything now is made in China and western businessmen are all too keen to take their businesses over there at the expense of workers in the west. Typical business attitude that.
Well known brands are leaving the sinking ship and before we know it the Chinese will rule the world.
All we can hope is that as they demand better wages and living standards they will be forced to raise their prices and eventually go the way of the Japs. The only thing I would say about Japanese products is they are top quality in every respect. I cannot say the same about any Chinese made product.
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Trouble is Barrie … you are about 20yrs too late. The writing was on the wall for Western Manufacturers many years ago. Japanese, Taiwan, Korea … and then Chinese .. all have decimated the western manufacturing such that there is no way west can compete on level terms anymore. You also have to blame the west for this partly. Manufacturers becoming assemblers instead of fabricators – looking for greater profits. They move manufacturing to sub-contract companies and gullible public buy the myth of Made in USA / EU etc. – when in truth it is only final assembly or marking that is.
History shows that workers themselves carry part of the blame, no-one is against fair wage and conditions for fair work … but at times that balance was overlooked and companies forced to look elsewhere to continue in business.
I would love to see manufacturing back in home lands – but it will not happen. Best you can hope for is continuation of Chinese / Far East investment in Western facilities to open up markets …. UK has benefited over years from Jap car companies … USA similar. Their need to open the markets by investing locally.
Sorry to say this – but trade protrectionism only fuels and worsens the situation in the long run. Short term gains are soon turned around to bite the instigator.
Back to FlySky … I love my FS 9ch !!
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I agree entirely with everything you’ve said. The UK set the world on the road to progress in the Industrial Revolution but the workers were exploited badly. So they fought back with the Unions and eventually got a better deal. The Unions then got too big for their boots and made unreasonable demands, culminating in our car trade disappearing together with thousands of subsidiary suppliers. This opened the door for the Japanese cars and motor cycles to move in, now it’s the Chinese.
It’s like a rolling snowball. The British car and motor cycle industry deserved to go under because of it’s stubbornness to improve and modernise. I do blame weak Government though and now they continue to fight amongst themselves instead of working together.
I worked in industry all my life and it saddens me to see the state of the UK now. Too late to affect me greatly as I’m 81 but I worry about my children and grandchildren. I worry about the world, full stop. Perhaps there is nothing new in that.
Let’s just keep to R/C and enjoy what we have while we can. It’s hard to think now that their used to be British made R/C outfits like Skyleader and a few others. How basic they seem now!
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Blimey … Skyleader ! That brings back memories. I used to fly the Skymaster Bipe that was Skyleaders demo machine in hands of Phil Ramsay, Chris Foss, Ken Binks etc.
Digimacs ? Futaba 6M (still have one working as well !),Acoms AM radio …. but my all time fav and still today is my JR Prop 8ch … before computer radios had pot mixing etc.
Skyleader – lets face it even in those days was an antique ! But the appeal was you could buy a kit to build your own Tx … as radio gear then was hugely expensive. I remember I paid over 400 quid for my JR Propo … today multiplied out – that is mega money !
For me getting back into the hobby – this Flysky was a present from heaven … cheap but works.
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I never had a Skyleader but I seem to remember it was a yellow metal case, very square with black lettering. I have never had anything other than Futaba until now and I still have several of my earlier sets all in working order and all going to waste now. I still use my Field Force 8 with Campack giving a ridiculous 41 model memory. I should be so lucky to ever keep 41 models in a flyable state. The most I achieved was about 9 and some of those went the way of them all eventually. Sad in a way, but nothing is unrepairable if you want to take the trouble but I have to say I hate repairing and would sometimes rather make another one. Apart from earlier trouble with CB radio on 27MHz any crash attributable to radio interference was a rare thing and hard to prove. It was usually my stupidity or the wind or trying to fly someone else’s model having taken my eye off my own. The usual mistakes. other than simply bad luck with a midair. Fun isn’t it?!?!?!?!?!
My current model under construction is an 8ft span Svenson Fieseler Storch scale model with a 90 OS four stroke. Will I trust that to the Flysky? Good question, maybe not as a first model with it. I will try it with two electric powered models first.
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for chats about old times .. maybe better via another medium ? Try my email : nluther”at”solent-life.co.uk : replacing “at” with the @ … ( I don’t like bots picking up my email address so disguise it .. )
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can we practice real flight G5 game using FS-TH9X by connecting USB to the computer. If any one knows please tell me…..
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Most certainly you can …. but not via USB.
Download 2 utilities :
SPPConsole (InstallSPP-3.3.9.exe)
PPjoystick (PPJoySetup.zip)
These two utilities create a virtual LPT via the audio mic / line in stereo jack socket on your PC. You will need a standard stereo audio jack plug cable that you use for for your Multimedia speakers to PC … (jack plug both ends).
Install the two above utilities to your PC. Then start SPPconsole and it will have dialogue boxes … you choose and make sure it has your audio PC card listed in the box. Then at bottom left put x in PPJOY extension … you will then see a pop-up bottom right corner telling you PPjoy is running … now this is IMPORTANT : Click HIDE button … do not click DONE. The HIDE button keeps SPPConsole and PPjoy running in background to interpret your Tx output …
Now all you do is plug in the audio plug into the socket below the Tx module on back of TX …. Tx will automatically turn on by itself, plug other end into PC audio in ….
Start up Sim and then choose PPjoy controller … calibrate and mapp as required.
You will find that some sims will not work with module in TX … some like it left in and then you get all 8 channels ….
Tx will now work just same as in field … model settings, memorys etc.
Online there are plenty of listings that go into deep explanations of SPPConsole / PPjoy if you need … just google.
I use mine every day via above … on RCplanemaster and HeliSimRC … even FMS will accept it – but I’m not a fan of FMS.
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thank you very much sir…
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thank you
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For anyone interested I have started to create a How To Series of programming the 9X radio – based on default factory Firmware. First up is the setting of Flaperons via the factory designers combination of Ch 1 + 6 and Flaperons on menu.
It can be found on Youtube and also the yahoo group dedicated to FlySky radios :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
I hope to be able to make up various videos to cover many aspects of these excellent radios … so watch the space !!
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Hi, i have installed “RC plane master” game i can see the function of my radio, but i can’t change the control, please explain me ?
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Ok… make sure SPPconsole and PPjoy are running … plug in radio Tx.
Start RC Planemaster …
Click on the single head top middle. That will take you to flight selection. Click on the Tx picture. That takes you to the radio calibration and mapping menus …
Select Change Controller .. select PPjoy …. then proceed through calibration and mapping ….
With the 9X – leave the Tx Module in and you will have the 5 channels you need .. if you take it out as most Sims need – you may only have 4ch.
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dear friends
please do let know if put FS 2.4G 9CH MODULE FOR AIRPLANE b module in my fs 9ch tx (oo1)instead the a module which have in my tx can use with R8B (new) rx?
rgds
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Only “a” version Rx will bind with TM001 Tx module. “b” version Rx with TM002 Tx module. You cannot mix them. BUT you can fit the TM002 Tx module into your Tx and then bind to a “b” rx … it is an upgrade for the Tx in fact.
The “b” version Rx is the single block, single dipole antena version. Much easier to install in a model instead of the two rx “a” version.
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My Problem :
The Tx is bound to the rx .
Only first 4 of the Channels work Throttle , Rudder , Elevator and Aileron work.
Channel 5,6,7 and 8 don’t work as I have a8 channel Rx .
Guess it is some programing , any one faced this problem.
Sai
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Go to Menu … Settings … Aux-CH and you can set which ch’s to which switch / knob you want …
5 – thru 8 are user definable and not default loaded.
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TrustFire 3.7v 2200mahr Li-Ion Batteries – Brand New – 8 for $22
I have eight brand new – still wrapped – rechargable TrustFire Li-Ion Batteries for sale. These are LSD (Low Self Discharge) batteries with built in Precise Digital Protection Circuitry to give you High Capacity with no memory effect. Price includes shipping in the US.
3.7 volt
2400 mahr
Model TF18650
PayPal preferred.
Feel free to contact me at: thx1326.at.swbell.dot.net
Thanks
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Hi
Does the FS-R6B 6ch receiver bind with FS-TH9X 9Ch Transmitter???
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Yes but only if you have TM002 Tx module …
Note : “a” version RX’s are for TM001 Tx modules …. “b” version Rx’s for TM002 Tx modules.
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for more info than you probably want about known issues and working around them on the TH9X flysky transmitter you may want to look here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1266162
…….B~5
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Hello sir
I bought a FS-CT6B 6CH 2.4GHz Transmitter and Receiver Model-2 …
I need another receiver
in Lieder receiver 6 do not exist
There is only FS-TH9X 8CH Receiver
I would like to know if it fits
If not then where do I find suitable RECEIVER
Thanks
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Ebay is best for price … but you have to wait for delivery …
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Thanks @solentlife…and yes i do have the TM002 Module…
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Hi all.
I have TM002 module in my th9x. I want to use 3 ch Rx for my HLG . It is V-tail construction, so I need to use mixer. If I try to have V-tail mix – no way , because , V-tail mix uses ch 2 and 4 , so I need to use elevon mix , that is ch 1 and 2 . But , I just can`t make that mix to work properly.Servos dont work like it should . If I move elevator stick , both servos moves in the same direction , so that is OK. But if I move rudder stick , servos should move in opposite direction , but they DON`T. I tried to use reverse function , but I did`t change anything. Only elevator and rudder functions have changed , motions of servos remain the same – both in same direction . Help please?
Regards , M.
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First of all I think we have to establish how you have Tx set-up … is that elevator / rudder on right stick or split left / right ? It is vital to know as a 3ch Rx will be specific and you cannot swap servo connection points as in a 6 or 8ch Rx.
The 9x V-tail mix function uses ch 2 + 4 and is correct for a model that is more than 3ch – I think it fair to say a 9x would be expected used on a multi ch. model.
I have connected 4 servos to my 8ch Rx as supplied with the 9x. Ch 1(aileron) Ch2(elevator) Ch4(rudder) Ch7(aux)
I set V-tail mix to ACT …
Ele 1 : 100
Ele 2 : -100
Rud 1 : 100
Rud 2 : -100
Now when I move elevator stick ch’s 2 + 4 servos work in unison as required. When I move RUDDER stick – my left stick, ch’s 2 + 4 work in opposition as required.
IF you want both servos to work of right stick as in many 3ch set-ups where left stick is throttle, right stick is elevator / aileron – then YES you have to look at elevon mix.
So lets go there – first we INH the v-tail mix otherwise we will have error message on screen.
So now we go to Elevon mix menu and do following :
STATE : ACT
AIL 1 : 100 100
AIL 2 : 100 100
ELE 1 : 100 100
ELE 2 : -100 -100
Servos are plugged into Rx’s Rudder/Aileron and Elevator positions. IF the servos move opposite to what desired – then REVERSE above settings +/-.
To be honest it’s much better to go with the 8ch Rx and avoid compatibility issues.
Nigel
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In fact – there is no reason why you cannot plug in any servo to any position of Rcvr … as in V tail … so you want right stick in Mode 2 to operate V tail .. so plug the rudder servos into the aileron / aux positions IF the model is non-aileron version.
I do advise though that use of a less than 6ch Rx with the 9X is a waste of potential and seriously limits what you can do. Better to go with the full 8ch – given that pricing on ebay is so cheap – in fact you can buy a 8ch Rx for this machine at 1/4 the price of “recognised brand names” …. even less in some cases …
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just Received FS-TH9x Transmiter .
Wouldn´t allow me to acess the menus . On display show “switch error ” and sound beep .
what can i do to solve the problem ?
Gabi
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Move all Switch’s up or back .This should work ?
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Hi, I just received my new Fly Sky FS-TH9X (B) and it works fine with the 9 ch receiver that came with it and now I just ordered and received a new FS-R6B receiver. The transmitter does have the TM002 Tx module but I can’t get this 6 ch receiver to work, all it does is just make a beeping sound up front by the motor and I’m using the same plane that the 9 ch receiver works fine in. So what am I doing wrong trying to get this 6 ch receiver to work with this transmitter? I did select another model in the menu thinking this would help but with no luck. Thanks………mj
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OK … have you BOUND the new Rx to the Tx ? Probably not. The manual is very poor in this respect as it doesn’t give instructions on this.
Basically all 2.4Ghz radio systems need to identify themselves between Tx and Rx so that no other Tx interferes or tries to control the Rx you have.
So how to do this ?
Switch off all radio gear. Make sure you are nowhere near in range of another 2.4Ghz Tx …..
Now plug in Bind plug – the black plastic piece with a plastic loop – into the Rx BATT slot. It doesn’t matter which way up it goes. Just plug it in. DO NOT USE BIND position – that is not connected to anything.
Now switch on / connect power to Rx and you will see a red LED light blinking inside case.
Next take TX and KEEP pressed the BIND button at the back while switching on TX …. KEEP it pressed until you see the red led light in the RX stay steady. When it stops blinking … usually in just a few sec’s – that means the Tx and Rx are now locked to each other.
It makes no difference which model memory you use – as all Rx’s bound to that Tx will react if powered on no matter what memory you have on.
You now switch off all … remove the black Bind plug and you will find that switch on Tx, then Rx … the Red led will glow steady showing it’s linked.
Plug in your servos and test …
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Thank You, your answer solved my problem and yes your right their is no explanation on binding in the manual that I have…..mj
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Hello Friends
I have 2 remote fs 9x. I hooked up cable TRAINER
Between the two
And I fixed the remote control but it does not work
Maybe I did something wrong
Can I get help with this
Thanks
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To be clear …. you connected 2 Tx’s together via trainer cable.
I assume that 1 Tx was already “BIND” to the Rx to use ? That Tx should now be classed as the MASTER Tx and will be the Instructors.
In Menu you select TRAINER … then set to ON all necessary channels you are using for that model. The State should then be changed from INH to ON.
The toggle switch at the back right top is the actuator switch for this function. If Instructor holds the switch Forward – slave Tx will work … Instructor lets switch go and it returns to normal position Slave Tx is disconnected.
Please note that according to manual – if Student Tx has mixing set on any of those ch’s then that mixing will be active. So I would suggest a clean model memory is used unless mixing is needed.
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Hi again, I have two more questions; first why two antennas? Second one is my unit works fine in the PPM mode but when I selected the PCM mode the receiver will not work in the PCM mode. When I was younger I had a Airtronics PCM system and of course in those days the PCM was the top of the line to have. Thanks again…..mj
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Two antenas …. some say this is a hangover from it’s earlier days and it’s ability to swap Modules and to still allow that today. I have no evidence to say this is not possible. I hear that people do successfully fit other modules but NOT JR – as they have a voltage provided on one of the pins that is different here. But I believe a Spektrum module may be fitted – I cannot confirm that and would advise caution on this.
The Turnigy version of the radio has removed the telescopic FM antena and fitted the 2.4Ghz stub in it’s place. I am not so sure this is a good idea … as it now means that Tx Module needs to be wired to the antena … that is why Turnigy Modules cannot be removed 100% from the Tx without modifying this antena cable.
PCM / PPM ….. I think most people just accept that they will use PPM and as to how you use PCM ?
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Good day.
I have a new version 2 Turnigy 9x transmitter with the 8 channel reciever supplied, a turnigy “sentry ” speed controller, a turnigy sk series 335/42 electric motor.
When the TX is being tested to run the motor (mode 1 right hand stick being throttle) the motor only starts to revolve when the throttle is pushed open to, about 3 mill passed the centre point of the throttle stick movement arc.
This is limiting the total throttle movement.
Can anyone explain how to get the full arc of throttle movement.
Thank you.
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You probably need to program the throttle range into the Speed Copntroller. Usual practice is to have TX switched on, then put throttle stick to full position, then connect up model battery / flight system. You hear a BEEP when the peed Controller (ESC) detects max throttle position, you then immediately move throttle stick to idle lowest position – the ESC will beep again and then complete it’s normal start-up checks.
When you move throttle stick now – you should have full range movement.
Sometimes above fails because throttle channel is reversed … so reverse the channel and try setting throttle range again. But I have an idea that your throttle is correct way round taking your description.
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Hi all.
I tried to connect Rx like solentlife (thx for advise ) said – but I just cant make mapping on PPjoy console . I have Creative Audigy SB4 (WDM) sound card . Some instructions for dummies will be fine
? Please.
BR , M
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The mapping is via the Simulator program you use after selecting PPjoy in its controller menu. Make sure your sound card is recognised in the box when SPPconsole starts …
You must also click to keep SPPconsole running during use of simulator.
Waste of time trying to map via Windows Controller …
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sorry about that … HTML has hidden part of my post … should read :
You must also click HIDE to keep SPPconsole running during use of simulator.
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Does anyone know any hacks available for this transmitter? so i can use the same one for different rc helicopters?
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Strange you should ask that … there are 8 model memories – so you can could have 8 different models all memorised on settings … so all you do is select which model you want … go fly.
Do you intend to have more than 8 models ?
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Great video, how do you switch from FM to 2.4ghz?
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I haven’t seen it done – but I’m told it’s just change the module plugged into the back of the Tx … making sure of course you have matching Rx …
But the 9X is supplied as a 2.4Ghz machine anyway … I cannot recall seeing an FM module for it …
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Will this radio work with my Model RC Truck Crane.
Some ch’s for Driving, and some for Crane control.??
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Why not ? Just because a menu item gives a channel a name doesn’t mean you have to stay exactly as that …….
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Hi.
I am building DLG for fun flying. So , it will only have rudder and elevator. So , can I use 6 ch Rx to set elevator in 2 modes (maybe 3 )? 1st mode , I would like to have slightly nose-up elevator trim , for launches , and 2nd mode for flying faster , so nose-down trim ? Is that possible on 6 ch Rx and how to do it . 8 ch Rx is too big to fit into fuselage .
Best regards to all.
M
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hi,
i have a lso a Fly Sky FS-TH9X but i kant use a channel 5.
i have 5 servos on my plane and i get conection with four and de number five doesnt work,its means i can use only four channels.
can somebody maybe tell me what the problem is?
thanks luis…….
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You have to set the Aux channels via the menu … Ch 5 is an Aux channel and when you first get the radio – it is at factory default with no Aux chl’s set.
So MENU …. SETTINGS …. AUX CH …. then select which and what you want ………….
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you have to go to ” aux-ch “and turn it on .
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I have now linked this Review Bolg to the FlySky Yahoo group and hope that together both sites can be of help to all who own or thinking to own these fine budget radios.
Nigel
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Has anyone specifically set up this TX with the Flymentor Stabilizer system on a 450 class heli? If so, would it be possible to get a copy of your program or have the settings posted as they appear in the FlySky TX menus?
Thanks in advance.
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Hi there , Im having problems with my transmitter FS-TH9X , when I turn it on it beeps and the display say “Switch error” this is a brend new transmitter, it arrive today 07-21-11. please help me with this problem . for your help thanks.
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With greatest respect and not trying to be rude … but this question is common and answered on nearly every forum / FAQ for computerised radios – it is not only FlySky that exhibits this “Error” … in fact it is NOT an error but a safety feature …
It indicates that not ALL switches are in default position … that is all front panel toggle switches UP and top toggle switches BACK … If you have Switch Error still showing – then one switch somewhere is not at default …
Cheers
Nigel
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/)
The owners group dedicated to FlySky radios and rebrands
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thanks , and sorry but this is my firts control of this type i normally had simple ones and the control came with no intructions so . thank you very much. this was helpful . cheers nigel
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This card has a separate radio to sell?
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The FS-TH9X is back in stock at HobbyPartz.com
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I just checked out my new FS-TH9X from hobbypartz. It has a failsafe feature. I just thought I would share. I assume the older models did not. This is a new model (no FM antenna) and it does in fact have a failsafe feature.
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is this radio (FS-TH9X)compatible whit head traker XGYRO 1000???????
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FS-TH9X from hobbypartz
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The second one has been with me for a few months now and is still going strong. One you have everything the setup is extremely easy. Simply bind the receiver to the transmitter by putting the bind plug in the receiver and powering on your transmitter while holding in the bind button. I could easily fly my helicopter to the very limits of my vision without any glitches. This might prove a problem if you are flying very fast or dangerous models. I assume the older models did not.This is my chuyen tien quoc te
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When i connect the flap to channel 5 or 6, and operate the gear/flap switch all servo starts to work out of control and the motor running by itself. It stop if I raised back the flap-switch. Any idea why this happens? Thaks for your suggestion.
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Sounds like an errant servo … have you tried a different servo in the Ch. 5 / 6 position ?
Main thing that many people forget is that the Tx comes as only first 4 ch’s activated … all AUX ch’s have to be activated by user in the menu. This is because each user will choose different configs to another. For example – I have my Flaps infinitely adjustable via the front left rotary knob. I don’t like stepped deployment.
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try to re-bind the receiver, if that don’t work ,make sure the channel you pick for the flaps is activated .
also watch the light on the reciever , see if it blink’s, when you flip the switch or at all ?
blinking is in binding mode.
it should stay on steady when ready to fly .
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try to re-bind the receiver, if that don’t work ,make sure the channel you pick for the flaps is activated .
also watch the light on the reciever , see if it blink’s, when you flip the switch or at all ?
blinking is in binding mode.
it should stay on steady when ready to fly .
hope this helps ? or better yet you have allready fixed it
Regards len
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I recently purchased flysky 9x with receiver. I am new to this. What funtion on the transmitter controls which channel on the receiver? I am unable to gert a response from several channels. any help?
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The first 4 ch’s are assigned at factory … that’s usually :
Ch1 = aileron
Ch2 = elevator
Ch3 = throttle / ESC
Ch4 = rudder
Ch5 and up are assigned by you via the AUX item in menu. You wqould usually have landing gear on Ch5 …
Reason for this is to allow you to assign / mix / program specifically for your model. Note that each model memory can have different aux ch assignments so it is for EACh memory that this applies.
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this happen while i’m firstly ‘on’ the rc at home..
i wants ask why when i open the switch,the display shown “switch error”??can anybody help me to solve this problem??
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If you go back through the posts here – you will find this ame question repeated many times … the answer is that you have one or more switches NOT in default position.
All switches on front should be UP, all switches on top should be BACK … once that – then Tx will boot up without error.
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Hi..help me pls. I have the problem with the “SWITCH ERROR” I try many time to push all of the switch to the front and turn on the switch but it can’t solve the problem what should i do..thanks for the answer..
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push all switch’s up and or back .should work.
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The manual is not very good and hard to figure out. Does anyone know how to program fixing of the servos? I have an airplane that flys by mixing and can not figure it out. thanks.
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How does this compare to the Futaba models
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Lets be honest – if you can afford a Futaba – why are you looking at this ?
But I would say this … with the FS 9X – you will have far more functions, mixes, possibilities than with any of the budget, low to mid range Futaba / Jr / Sanwa / Hitec etc. gear. The question really is – can you live with the FS 9X and it’s possible lower quality control ?
I would buy a Futaba or JR if I want quality and had the money … but I don’t have and I therefore buy the FS 9X and very happy with it.
I do have to admit that I swapped out the FS module and fitted FrSky module / Rx … for 2 reasons … my Old 1980′s JR can use the FrSky module and also I had some strange glitches when using the FS module / Rx … I do not say the FS module / Rx was at fault. I just swapped out as much as possible to eliminate all possibilities.
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Hi Nigel,what kind of Frsky module did you fit. I have a
Frsky DF Combo will it fit the Fly DKY FS-TH9X radio I dont have the radio yet.Regards Allan.
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I have a JR 8103. Can I use the module FS-TM002 with this radio? If it does work, will I be able to bind it with micro heli’s Great Wall Xieda 9958 / HobbyKing HK-190? The Turnigy 9x TX is able to bind with these.
Your quick response would be highly appreciated.
Sameer
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When i turn on the unit…it only reads switch error….whats wrong?
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When i turn on the unit…it only reads switch error….whats wrong?………
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Switch is broken…thats y n work
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Are you sure ? Switch Error is a common problem where one or more switches when you turn on is not at default position.
Front switches should be fully UP … top switches should be fully BACK ….
The funny thing is … even if switch is disabled in menu – it still does this.
It’s not only the FS that has this Switch Error …. my other 2.4Ghz gear also does the same … my Heli EH radio shows MIX in the screen if I have a switch wrong – usually the throttle hold – where I use it to disable motor when connecting / disconnecting battery pack.
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could you expand on the •Simulator Interface: Yes please
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tnx a lot frend
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Hi
This transmitter is compatible with Fs-R6B receiver?
Thanks
Regards
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Yes,, I think so, but only if you have TM002 Tx module …
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Hi
( lets hope)
Thanks for your attetion Mr Adam , i bought it from Leaderhobby , i think TM002 Tx module is included
Now what battery would you sugest?
Thanks in addvance
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Battery for the Fs-R6B Fs-R6B receiver? I couldn’t recommend one, I don’t know much about that receiver.
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I mean for the radio , a 3s 2200mha?
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hi im bob i think its bad
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I bought this from China and it’s OK to have in the USA.
I seen alot of people have them.
mine works fine.
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